Old Vines are two words on wine labels that spark curiosity and give a sense of prestige. Until recently, there was no clear international definition of what they actually mean. With the new resolution from the International Organization of Vine and Wine (OIV), a global directive finally defines what constitutes an old vine. Once again, I'm thrilled to bring you this news first hand.
What excites me most about the world of wine is that it's impossible to know everything. Otherwise, I think it would be quite boring... To complicate things (in a good way), constant updating is required. Being a Sommelier and especially a Wine Educator means a continuous commitment to study and a passion for research.
That’s why I stopped mentioning some “wisdoms” of wine, like the importance of the “legs" (or tears) of a still wine in the glass. Nowadays, we know that this is just glycerol density, which doesn’t guarantee the wine’s alcohol richness or even a higher quality; it’s simply pleasing to look at.
What are old vines, and how old should they be? These are questions I’m frequently asked in the wine courses I give. Many consumers are confused by the true meaning of these two words on wine labels that range from €2.99 to €299.
So in 2021, after attending the Old Vine Conference online, I was excited to write an article about old vines. I felt it was my duty to share what winemakers and viticulturists from Portugal, Spain, Italy, Lebanon, South Africa, and the United States had communicated during the conference in April 2021, aiming to clarify the topic.
"Old vines are not very common. Typically, they’ve been replaced by younger vines that yield more grapes annually. The European Community also offers financial incentives for the removal of old vines to plant new ones."
It’s worth remembering that the vine is a wild plant, and if the grower wants to tame it completely, like a wild animal in a circus, it will lose its character and possibly produce very little or stop producing (an old vine). Thus, each vine needs to be understood individually, not the vineyard as a whole, to allow it to grow into a mature, healthy, and happy “elder” under human care.
The goal of the first Old Vine Conference* was to raise awareness of the fact that old vines are neither visible nor recognized by some professionals and consumers, and that this needs to change.
And I’m so pleased that what I wrote in 2021 is now outdated as of October 2024! Finally, a global directive exists for defining an old vine. Once again, I’m thrilled to bring you this news first hand.
Before I go on, let me remind you that the Douro (Valley) region was once again a pioneer. We Portuguese should be proud that the Douro and Porto Wines Institute (IVDP) took the first steps in December 2020 to create a quality designation - Old Vines, for DOC Douro, Regional Duriense, and Porto wines. Some of them are already on the market!
The vines must meet certain criteria for the wine to pass certification by the tasting panel and carry this new designation on the label.
Over 40 years old
5,000 vines per hectare
A minimum of four grape varieties planted
More recently, on October 18, the OIV defined at the 22nd General Assembly held in Dijon, France, what qualifies as old vines and old vineyards.
An old vine “is an individual plant, officially documented to be 35 years or older, regardless of other factors. An old vineyard is a continuous plot of vineyard land, legally demarcated, where at least 85% of the vines meet the previous definition.”
The OIV also considered the case of directly grafted vines, meaning “the graft union between the rootstock and the scion must have remained intact for at least 35 years.”
Now we just have to wait for the Portuguese Instituto da Vinha e do Vinho (IVV) and the regional wine commissions (CVR's), as well as the Institutes (IVDP and IVBAM) to regulate this internally. Soon, we will be able to enjoy a wine from old vines with the assurance that at least 85% of the wine comes from vines over 35 years old.
And if the 85% bothers you, remember that any European single-variety wine only needs to have 85% of the grape variety mentioned on the label. Producers are not required to disclose the other varieties, so some specify 100% on the label or back label.
I hope I’ve once again contributed to enhancing your wine education.
If you’d like to learn more, remember you can always take an in-person or online wine course with me. All courses are personalized and private, so I can tailor them to your needs and curiosities. Contact me here.
*The Old Vine Conference Limited is a non-profit organisation. Its purpose is to connect wine professionals and consumers to build a global category for Old Vines. The next conference will take place from October 31 to November 4 this year.
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